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Health & Fitness

Check One Off My Bucket List—Machu Picchu

Malibu resident and blogger Tema Merback takes a five-day, 38-mile trek to Machu Picchu on the Inca Trail in Peru.

There is enormous satisfaction when you place that check mark next to one of your bucket list entries. I now can say, Machu Picchu—check!

was about my build for Fuller House in La Florida, Peru. From La Florida, it is a two and a half hour bus journey back to Lima and a one-hour flight to Cusco. Cusco (Q’osqo), which means "Lord of the Sun," was originally called Tahuantinsuyoor, "The Four Regions of the Four United Regions" and considered to be the "Navel of the World" by the Inca, whose empire was divided into four separate quadrants that emanated out in four directions from the Inca Empire's capital of Cusco. 

Cusco is one of the most beautiful cities in the world, situated in the Huatanay River Valley and nestled up against the spires of the Cordillera Vilcabamba Mountains—a link in the chain of the majestic Andes. This ancient capital retains much of its flavor and is recognized as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. It also possesses some of the finest restaurants in South America and the world at unbelievably reasonable prices. After eating (bulking up) and acclimating (Cusco's altitude is 11,200 feet) for two days, it was time to "hit the road" and hike.

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The trail begins at Piskacucho, better known as Kilometer 82, where you immediately cross the Vilcanota River. The first day is relatively easy, but long, and we didn't reach our campsite at Llactapata until after dark, which is a bit scary as the terrain is rocky and the footing is difficult. Along the way, we paused at the Inca Fortress Huillcaraccay, which afforded stunning views of the mountains and climb ahead and impressive glimpses of the Urubamba River that lay below.

So far, the weather had cooperated and we suffered not from cold or rain. Even with these good auspices, the altitude and length of trekking took its toll and we lost three of our comrades after the first day who wisely decided to return to Cusco (a little more physical conditioning would have made the difference). We also witnessed several injured (broken legs) and one possibly dead casualty (a person being carried down on the shoulders of mountain guides on a gurney), not to mention the out-of-shape couple being brought down on donkeys whose faces conveyed the shock that they were clearly suffering from. 

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I think it was at this point that I wondered whether I would ever see Malibu again!  I emphasize that it is foolish to attempt the Inca Trail without proper fitness training and hiking, better to take the train to Agua Caliente ,spend the night and take the bus up to Machu Picchu (now that's easy)!

Day Two is considered the hardest segment of the hike due to a particularly difficult ascent from 9,842 feet to 12,467 feet. However, our brilliant guide Santiago—a true Inca historian, spiritualist and promoter of cocoa leaves (I never felt a thing from chewing them)—decided to divide this leg of the trip into two days. Day Two would be the most difficult, leaving a relatively easier Day Three.

Normally, the destination is Wayllabamba, at 9,482 feet, and camping. However, we decided to attempt two more mountain passes. Onward we climbed toward Huarmihuanusca—better known as "Dead Woman's Pass" (how fitting the name as that is just how I felt by the time we reached it) at 13,779 feet (I can't breathe).

Our good weather fortune now deserted us with the heady altitude and continued to worsen. Drizzly, damp, slippery and unyielding, we began our climb (four hours) up to "Dead Woman's Pass" (God help us) and then down past the circular Inca fortress of Runkurakay and its amazing architecture. The Inca builders used no grout in their structures; instead the stones were carved on site and fitted so closely and perfectly that they seem at times to have no seams at all. This is a testament to Inca ingenuity that neither earthquake nor erosion has toppled these remote towns. They are still standing! Nothing is known about the purpose of any Inca site as they left no written record, but this one seemed to be a fortress with military purpose.  

Now one more pass at 13,123 feet and finally, mercifully, we reached our campsite at Pacamayo (all in all this was definitely a 12-hour ordeal). It is a small campsite and the tent for my dear friend Veda and me was literally pitched on a precipice about 10 inches from the edge of a ledge. Worst scenario, if we woke in the night and had to go to the bathroom, one wrong move and we would drop eight feet into someone else's tent, which was definitely my preference over walking down a hill to the toilets (disgusting).   

I will not spend any time describing the hygienic facilities of the trek. Let's just say that they are the biggest drawback of the trip (bring plenty of hand sanitizer and wipees). Thank God for our wonderful trek team from Llama Path who fed us copious meals (gourmet almost), dragged our stuff over the mountains and pitched our tents so that they were ready for our collapse upon arrival. Day 2—check! We had survived the worst.

Day Three, first it was cocoa tea served in our tent followed by a warm breakfast. Then we must attempt one more pass and on to the beautiful Inca site of Sayacamarca or "High Rising Town," which really is this tiered fairytale city in the middle of a mountain jungle, replete with a cascading and serenading waterfall that completes the mystical ambience.

Wild llamas graze in this world just as they have since the beginning of time.  Languidly with their large expressive eyes, they cast their gaze upon the human interlopers who pass through their ancient kingdom. They don't seem to suffer from the altitude or our trespass and are very friendly. In fact, they visited our campsites regularly. At one point a llama was blocking the trail and nibbling away on tree leaves when we literally had to push it sideways to pass, hands on rump "alley-oop" (good llama, please don't spit at me).  

That evening, we slept at the top of a mountain near the Inca site of Phuyupatamarca, "Town above the Clouds," with breathtaking views. We watched the sun set on the face of the Inca's sacred mountain Salcantay at 20,694 feet, which seemed so close that one felt you could just stretch out your arm and touch it. This is the coldest spot on the trail and we spent the night bundled up trying to keep warm. Did I fail to mention that it rained all night? Brrrr ...

Day Four began with the challenge of 3,000 steep steps down a winding staircase of stone hewn from living rock through rugged terrain and unimaginable views.  Many of the most beautiful Inca sites seem to materialize out of the mist: Intipata, “Sun God Site,” then WinayWayna, "Forever Young" (you would have to be just to get there), and finally we beheld our elusive goal as we climbed through the Sun Gate and caught our first glimpse of "The Lost City of the Inca"—Machu Picchu. 

How lucky were we that the weather cleared, we passed through the Sun Gate to be regaled by a spectacular vista beneath cloud-dappled skies with Inti (the Sun God) smiling down upon us. Ahead lay postcard views dominated by the Huayna Picchu peak thrusting up and towering over like a protective father or a rather large phallic symbol. 

In the evening, we upgraded to sleeping in a hostel in Agua Caliente, which is the nearest town to Machu Picchu. We replenished with a great meal and behaved like normal tourists. The next day, it was an extended visit to Machu Picchu and its wonders. I will tell you that no photographs or words do it justice. It really is breathtaking—and I don't mean because of the altitude. After absorbing the intoxicating atmosphere of Machu Picchu, we took the Vistadome (fabulous deluxe train on Peru Rail) from Agua Caliente to Ollantaytambo, which is where the service officially ends. Then we took a taxi back to Cusco. 

The Inca Empire lasted from approximately 1400 C.E. to 1532 C.E. and covered a landmass that included all of Peru, Bolivia, most of what is Ecuador and much of Chile. It extended into Argentina and Columbia and was connected by a brilliant road system. The Inca invented horticulture and built sophisticated farms where they scientifically developed different species of potatoes and other varieties of vegetables. No one went hungry in the Inca Empire.   

Unfortunately, it took only 188 bloodthirsty gold-crazed Spaniards with swords, armor and horses to vanquish and nearly annihilate the native people and culture of Peru. The Spaniards spent the next 500 years eradicating and subjugating the indigenous peoples. It is only in recent years that Inca pride has been reborn and celebrated.  

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